Thursday, September 3, 2009

Losing hope at Common Hope and Reflection

Hoping to gain some valuable insight into stove projects in rural Guatemala, I set up a meeting with the clean stove project leader, Narciso, at Common Hope just outside of Antigua last Monday. I had heard great things about the organization’s appropriate technology implementation methods and was hoping to get some ideas for HiA. I knew that they offered tours of their projects and weren’t hesitant to take guests to the project sites with them. I wanted to find out:
  • How they chose their communities
  • What kind of assessments they started with to determined what the communities needed
  • Exactly how they implemented their technologies
  • If they did any follow up assessments
  • What kind of stoves they were using/how they were built
My new buddy, Julio, who has been my chauffer to and from Animal AWARE, joined me for the meeting because he is writing his thesis on the amount of usable wood you can get from a tree and how it can be used. We arrived to find a huge ‘compound’ with buildings and playgrounds and random booths with women displaying textiles and a construction zone. Common Hope (‘Familias de Esperanza’) has a huge community program with its own schools and teachers and everything.

Because of an internal miscommunication, Narciso did not know we were coming and was on his way out to a project site to deliver some materials. Fortunately, he offered for us to join him on the quick trip so we got to see a school where they were in the process of constructing a stove. The school project was out of the ordinary for Common Hope because they typically work with communities only and they ask that the community members build their own stoves with the provided materials. At the school, they had to deliver the materials AND build the stove…and when Narciso asked the women who worked at the school to mix some mortar; they complained that he should be doing the work because they didn’t know how to do it. Fortunately Narciso stood by the agreement that they had made with the school and insisted that they at least help with that.

While we were visiting the school I set out to get my questions answered. I found out that they just work with any and every community near Antigua to implement the stoves. I’m not sure I agree with this method. They have implemented 500 stoves in and around Antigua. While it seems that they are doing great things for these communities, it was not the community members themselves who sought out the help for improvements. At the same time, while they have an exceptional implementation method, they don’t seem to have a follow-up assessment beyond an 8 day period immediately following the construction where they check to make sure the stoves are working. Because of this, there is no way to get feedback on the stoves or to find out if the families are actually using them. This problem was made clear by the school that we visited. They already had a stove previously but it was too high for the women to use because they move heavy pots that are half as tall as they are when they are cooking so they were burning themselves. They requested that Common Hope come back in and rebuild the stove a foot lower. Sure, a school may be bold enough to make this kind of request, but how many of the 500 families with Common Hope stoves would actually come forward with a complaint about the donation and how many would just stop using them because they don’t want to complain about what they’ve been given.

Their initial implementation, however, is quite clever. They require that each family donate 10-20 hours of service at the Common Hope compound in exchange for a stove. Additionally, the family needs to build their own stove provided the material donation from Common Hope. This way it is not just a gift for the family but rather a business exchange. In order to train the families in a community, they hold a training session where they pay about 15 community members from different families Q100 each to learn how to construct stoves. In turn, each trainee needs to hold a training session to teach 15 other community members how to construct the stove. This method is effective at spreading the knowledge and it seems to work out really well for Common Hope. The expenses are high though because the organization has to shell out Q900-1700 per stove, an expense that the community members themselves could never afford if an organization like Common Hope were not around.

There are two types of stoves that they implement. The cheaper of the two is called an Onil stove and it is constructed of 12 blocks, some mortar, some bricks, a metal chimney, and a very expensive ‘plancha’ (the stove top part). These are considered the most simple of the stove designs and they are quite effective at conserving wood. A measure of wood that normally lasts less than a month will last around 7 months using these stoves.
They also have a more expensive stove called the Lorena designed and purchased from HELPS International (for up to Q1700) and the height of this stove can be adjusted to accommodate the short stature of most Mayan women.
Common Hope is working on a design for a third type of stove that would be constructed in the bottom half of a metal barrel and would function similarly to the others. While the design is simpler and a little cheaper, it would still run over Q700 (still not affordable by the average family who makes next to nothing). Regardless of cost and other issues, it is a fact that many women and children die of lung related diseases because they cook over open fires in their homes. These stoves certainly diminish that risk and they also reduce burns from accidents around the open fires and minimize the need for a constant supply of firewood.

Leaving Common Hope, I was mildly discouraged by the outrageous cost of the stoves as I knew HiA could never implement these stoves community wide because we don’t have the funding sources for such a large project and the community we work with has next to no income. It was a great experience, though, to learn about the construction of such stoves so I have a better understanding of their function and structure as we continue to research more sustainable designs.

As it was Lauren’s last day in Antigua so we made the big hike up the hill that overlooks Antigua to La Cruz. From there, we had the best view of the whole city and Volcan de Agua.
Then we passed by La Pila (where they wash their clothes) and went to the roof of Cafe Sky for a great panoramic view of the clearing skies over Volcan de Fuego to the west, Agua to the south, and Acatenango to the north.
We also hit up Yogen Fruz one final time...she was an addict...
Later that night, we went out to dinner with Julio and had some pretty heavy conversation about the war followed by a review about our favorite and least favorite things about Guatemala so far.

Good
  1. Camionetas: I love trying to fit in with the locals on these buses. It makes me feel just a little daring to ride the notorious ‘chicken buses.’
  2. Antigua: I feel at home here in Antigua. One of the safer cities in Latin America because it is geared toward tourists, sometimes I feel like I’m in Kerrytown, Ann Arbor. Everything is within walking distance and easy to find, the roads and sidewalks are impossible to walk or drive on, and there is always something to do.
  3. Lago Atitlan: Not only is this one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been, I simply had a good experience there. It is incredibly relaxed when you’re not in Pana, they have some serious community development projects underway that will serve as excellent resources in the future, and when you want the cheap souvenirs (how about a $12 hammock) Pana is the place to go.
  4. Xela Bookstore: One thing I love about staying at backpackers hostels is that they always have a table full of brochures of the coolest attractions around. From a 13-meter burrito fundraiser to a hole-in-the-wall English bookstoreto the free salsa classes and the Xela Who that explained the way to say “I have to pee/poop” in multiple degrees of vulgarity. The bookstore though was an amazing little 8 foot by 10 foot room that looked like a scene from Beauty and the Beast. There were ladders leading you up to the 7th and 8th and 9th shelves of books. Books were categorized into classics, politics, regional, and more. I went in looking for two of the most popular books about the Guatemalan Civil War and was disappointed to find that they only had new copies of those books because they were in such high demand. However, I did leave with a bargain book: an incredibly written biography of Father Roy Bourgeois called ‘Disturbing the Peace’ (http://www.soaw.org/article.php?id=861). More about Xela coming soon.
  5. Mercado: I have always been addicted to fruits and vegetables. The problems with having that addiction at home in Michigan are numerous:
  • they are more expensive than peanut butter and macaroni and cheese
  • they are only available during certain seasons
  • they are usually imported from chile and peru which just makes me feel guilty about all the carbon required to bring me my apple (especially when we have an overabundance of apples in the orchard for 2 months out of the year)
  • since we have to drive a half hour to get to the grocery store we only buy them once a week and they’re usually bad by the time you go to eat them
  • farmers markets are only offered on select days, they’re only available in the summer, and their cost is inhibitory
  • BUT: In the Antigua Mercado, my addiction is always satisfied and I can feel great about my purchases. You simply can’t buy a pair of mangoes for less than $3 at home; here you can buy a bag of 5 for Q5 (about 60 cents). I was disappointed to find that many of the apples in the market still come from the USA and Chile but I always have the option of purchasing Guatemalteca and it’s even cheaper: 10-15 apples for Q10 ($1.20). I can buy a local broccoli head for Q2 (25 cents). While the mangoes are starting to go out of season, there is still plenty of pineapple to be had. And, I can go to the market 2-3 times per week because it is only a 15 minute walk and there are hundreds of vendors with fresh fruits and veggies every day. This is the epitome of a farmers market and it’s done really well. It’s always colorful and lively and there is always a fresh selection.

Bad
  1. Machismo and creepy old men: They’re everywhere. At 8AM, they stand outside their stores, at 12AM watching everyone else dance while hanging on the bar because they’re too old to keep up with the young crowd. You can be wearing long pants and a sweatshirt and they’ll still make comments. “Hey baby.” “Hola Barbie.” “Ay mamita.” Honestly, we’ve heard it all.
  2. The flyer hander-outers: They too are everywhere. They will come at you and shove paper in your face. They are like pests trying to sell trips to Pacaya or holistic itch relief. Seriously…one man has commented on the number of mosquito bites on my legs every time I’ve walked by; he also commented on Lauren’s sunburn and peeling. Some people are tempted to just take the paper and toss it aside so they can get rid of the nuisance which only increases the already elevated litter problem in the city. Which brings me to my next point…
  3. Trash: It too is everywhere. Unavoidable. In fact, it’s so common that it’s an endless cycle of litter-ers. Just because it’s everywhere, everyone thinks it’s okay to just toss their trash aside when they don’t want it anymore. Recycling service is also terribly expensive so no one does it. While I have heard that they have a similar method to Peru…people will pick through the trash in search of recyclable materials that they can sell to recycling companies to make a profit. Only tin and paper and glass are of any value. Plastic is worth next to nothing and it seems to be the most common trash. This is why I think recycled art and plastic bottle walls are such a great idea.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Santa Cruz Inspirations

It was 4:45AM when my alarm went off telling me to get up and get ready for the 6AM shuttle to El Lago Atitlan. The shuttle was 45 minutes late ('Guatemalan time' is a little more lenient than 'Michigan time'). After a half hour (of a two and a half hour journey) we were already stopping at Burger King (yes, they have BK here too with the familiar french toast sticks and the local 'plato tipico' of beans, eggs, bread, etc.). We filed out to get breakfast and use the bathroom but when everyone was picking up their bags of food at the end of the counter the driver said there was no hurry and that we should sit and eat, take our time...typical. So, Lauren and I ate breakfast with a Nicaraguan doctor and a local Panajachel artisan (the main pueblo on Lago Atitlan) who were speaking pretty fast Spanish making it difficult to keep up and participate in their conversations. So this is how it went and we finally arrived to Pana just before 10:30 on the bus that was supposed to arrive around 9.

We really had no plans for what to do at Lago Atitlan except for the travel agent's recommendations to go to Santiago Atitlan which is the second largest town on the lake. We had reservations at hotel in Santa Cruz but figured we wouldn't be able to check in until afternoon.
We didn't want to carry all of our luggage around Santiago, so we decided to get some food then explore Pana which is basically streets lined with artisans selling their wares. When we stopped to take our first set of pictures of the lake from above the boat docks, Lauren realized her digital camera was missing and we thought she just left it at home...but it really is a tragedy for a photographer to be without her camera...so she reluctantly used mine.
All she had with her was her giant, ancient technique film camera that she used to take pictures at breakfast...


After breakfast, we spent far too much money on souveniers including hammocks which we just realized will probably not fit in our luggage! Lauren wouldn't let me buy this hat for some reason...


After spending what seemed like a fortune and before we spent the rest of the money that we would need to pay for the hotel, we caught a lancha publica (public boat shuttle) to Santa Cruz.

We were going to stay at La Iguana Perdida as recommended by other CasaSito friends.

It is an eco-friendly hotel that even has recycled toilet paper. We got to our room just in time for the torrential rains to hit. We tried to wait out the rain before heading off to relax in the main lodge/restaraunt/bar/game room but it never seemed to end. Here's Lauren enjoying the soggy weather...

Once we made it to the lodge...we made a cat friend and enjoyed playing with her until we realized that were weren't alone...giant spiders (2") covered the walls above our heads.

So we went in and played Scrabble and Trivial Pursuit...


Rory also got be excited about the Saturday night BBQ and cross-dressing party at La Iguana. Excited to play dress-up, Lauren and I hit the used clothes room in search of some manly outfits...unfortunately the cross-'dress'ing is geared more toward men so we had limited options for mens outfits and decided just to put on something a little crazy.




The dinner was incredible with beet burgers and 7 types of vegetarian salads. Dinner was followed by a dance party that was opened by the owner and his son playing some Iguana classics on the guitar and hand drum including a song about the story of the lost iguana and a song about riding the chicken bus! The dance party got pretty loco when a kind of crazy older woman started dancing with us to 'you can do it, put your back into it' and 'sexy back.' Can you tell which one is the crazy lady...?

This morning we got up super early so Lauren could shoot some pictures with her 15-minute-to-set-up film camera.

After taking pictures, Lauren went back to sleep and I went back down to the main lodge to learn a little more about some projects that they work with the organization Amigos de Santa Cruz (http://www.amigosdesantacruz.org/Amigos_de_Santa_Cruz/HOME.html). Without boring you with the (exciting) details, I was getting ideas for Health in Action and CasaSito projects. My favorite project is this plastic bottle wall. The organization had children go out and pick up plastic bottles, fill them with other trash like the over-abundant snack sized chip bags, and bring them to the center in exchange for a pair of shoes. These bottles would then become an internal structure for cement walls of buildings and homes. The benefits are incredible: http://www.puravidaatitlan.org/english.html. The same organization has also improved stove project to improve ventilation in homes and reduce firewood comsumption: http://www.onilstove.com/

My understanding for the need for recycling and waste disposal projects in Guatemala was reinforced by the views on my climb up to the little town of Santa Cruz.


By the time we were done walking around Santa Cruz and relaxing at La Iguana Perdida, it was just about time to get back on the shuttle so we went straight to Pana, did a little more shopping, ate an amazing vegetarian meal at a real vegetarian restaurant, and got to the bus just in time for the downpour of the day. The ride home to Antigua was long, bumpy, curvy, and up-and-down...there was even a carsick passenger. We finally made it home after too many hours of driving and we're ready to get to work on our volunteer projects this week. Lauren will be painting a mural at a local school and I will be splitting my time between Animal AWARE, Health in Action research, and hopefully another organization from Antigua called Common Hope.

For 10 pictures she took on this weekend trip, I took 220 (I took far too many pictures to load in here...if you want to see any of my Guatemala pictures, check out my Picasa uploads at http://picasaweb.google.com/cricketd33). Here are a few:




Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Travel, travel, travel

Well, as it turns out, health care is super cheap down here ($4 for a lab test and $15ish for a doctor's visit) but medicine is suuuper expensive. 4 cipro for Q140=more than $3/pill and 2 anti-parasitics for Q150. If it weren't for the high cost of the meds, I wouldn't send in my insurance forms because it would cost almost as much to send the mail! Felt better almost instantly after taking the meds and was ready for some work and traveling.
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I was in great shape and I got to do some more work with the groomer at Huellas here in Antigua: this work consisted of blow drying and picking at about 50 ticks off of one giant yellow lab and blowing fleas off of another. Needless to say, I was pretty itchy all day.
~~~
Sadly, Honey was having complications that landed her in the ER the day before she was due to fly out for a Guatemalan getaway. Making the best of the situation, Lauren and I went unaccompanied on the trip doing out best to take pictures of everything so Honey could feel like she were there. We started with a luxurious night at the Westin Camino Real in Guatemala City.

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After exploring the mall and food joints, we went back to the hotel to live the ritzy life for a night.


We even went as far as to consume a strawberry smoothie at the pool and...we charged it to the room!

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We especially enjoyed the 'heavenly' dual shower head and we spread out in the giant cloud-like beds to watch the movie channel and fall asleep in the cool air conditioned room.

~~~
Reluctant to leave the hotel at 5:00AM, we were excited to start our whirlwind tour of the ancient ruins at Tikal. Much to Lauren's dismay, we hopped on a puddle-jumper plane for the half hour flight to Flores International Airport.

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In Flores, we met up with our tour guide who shuttled our group into the buses headed for The Tikal Inn where we got checked in and immediately headed off for a 4 hour tour of the Tikal ruins.

Having known nearly nothing about Mayan history, I gained a lot of knowledge about the constructions and lifestyles of the ancient Mayans who inhabited Tikal from around 600B.C. to 800A.D. The restored ruins of Tikal were once the home to religious temples, pyramids, and acropoli where noblemen lived. Much of Tikal still lays buried and eroded but universities and other organizations are slowly working to uncover and restore the ancient ruins. Climbing up a 70m ruin, Temple IV, was quite exhausting and we were all ready for lunch.

After lunch, we had a relaxing afternoon in the pool followed by a silent, starry night when all of the generators are turned off and all you can hear are the cicadas, birds, and monkeys.
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On Sunday, I again awoke in the wee hours of the morning to see the sunrise and go on the 'mananero tour' where we would see spider monkeys, howler monkeys, purple parrots, toucans, a raccoon-like creature, a guinea pig-like creature, and some native plants that are used for food, textiles, and traditional healing. The guide even told me of a leaf that is supposed to help dissolve kidney stones when it's boiled into a tea.

We also saw an all-spice tree which smells incredible and made a really great syrup for the pancakes we ate for breakfast afterwards. Although the morning was cloudy, the view from atop Temple IV (yes, climbed the tallest temple in Tikal a second time) in the morning was breath-taking as the mist slowly rose from the top of the canopy.

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We also learned about a game of life or death (in the most literal sense) where, depending on the celebration, either the winner or the loser would be sacrificed to the gods or to hell, respectively. This game was sometimes played on the mini-month of the Mayan calendar (after 18 months of 20 days, they would have an extra month of 5 days to finish off the 365 days in a year) when they would go to neighboring villages, capture a ruler and bring him back to 'play with him' for a few days then sacrifice him. Contrary to popular belief, the residents of Tikal only performed human sacrifices on 'special occasions' like the beginning of the rainy season. While we were on the subject of life and death, I tried to get some insider knowledge on the end of the Mayan calendar (12/12/2012) but the guide had no solid answers other than to say that it's the end of the long count of 5125 years (8/11/3114-12/12/2012) and that the Great Cycle should start over.
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Also, when we entered on Sunday, we were not permitted to enter the main plaza because the President of Guatemala flew in on his helicopter to visit the historical Mayan village for the International Day of the World's Indigenous People and to partake in some Mayan rituals (http://www.elperiodico.com.gt/es/20090810/pais/109924/...the Mayan tour guide belives that Colom's expressed interest in Mayan shamanism is a purely political move since he was not raised Mayan and only 'practices' when it's conveneint).


(notice the prez's helicopter)
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After the quick weekend trip to Tikal, Lauren and I spent Monday and Tuesday in Spanish classes and planning our trips for the rest of the week. Since I was planning on Honey's trip, I had already 'taken the week off' so Lauren and I decided we wanted to travel to Monterrico and Panajachel.
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We headed off to Monterrico early on Wednesday morning and tried to convert to relaxed beach mode. However, in the midst of planning, I went to get an ear piercing which requires almost an hour's worth of maintenance each day and will keep me out of the ocean and pools for a couple of months. It was Lauren's first time ever to the Pacific and she was quite surprised to learn about the strength of the waves and the undertow. Also, it was a black sand beach making it nearly impossible to walk on the sand without burning the soles of your feet. Thus, we spent most of our time lazing in the hammocks and Adirondack chairs of our hotel, Johnny's Place.

Since it is impossible for me to 'chill and do nothing', I spent most of my time falling asleep while studying genetics. Laying in a hammock trying to attain the same nearly comatose state as everyone else at Johnny's I realized that people love to relax at the beach because it makes them feel free. On the contrary, I felt oddly restrained by the freedom, like it was inhibiting me from doing something productive, like I wasn't being useful.

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There's never a shortage of food or dogs in this country for a animal loving vegetarian!


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Monterrico is also known for it's sea turtle reserve (sea turtle=tortuga or parlama) that takes in and hatches the turtle eggs then releases the tortugitas to the sea after 5 days of hand-feeding fish. Since turtle eggs are a delicacy in Guatemala, they used to be hunted by humans who would sell them to the cities for Q30/dozen...each turtle can lay up to 12 dozen twice a year. There is now a law stating that all gathered eggs need to be taken to the hatchery which has helped the decline in the turtle population. However, the eggs are also sought out by hungry dogs and birds so these tours help to save the eggs before they get eaten or sold.

Immediately when we got off the bus, we were approached by men telling us about the reserve and offering turtle tours in the afternoon. Throughout the morning, we were approached by men over and over again until we went for a walk and booked the trip at the 'eco-tourism office'.

Still not actually sure who was fake and who was actually certified since they all had 'identification' and only one was obviously falsified. The tour was supposed to offer us a 3 hour walk on the beach in search of turtles laying eggs.at which time we would be able to take pictures and catch the eggs to take to the hatchery. We also bought into the morning tour through the mangroves to see birds and iguanas and the sunrise.
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Unfortunately, I have no pictures to show of the night time turtle walk because we saw zero turtles. I did enjoy a nice three hour conversation with the guide in Spanish though. (He sold us the tour by saying that he could speak some English for Lauren...he didn't speak ANY.) But, he was raised in Monterrico and has experience as a fisherman, construction worker, farmer, and now a tour guide who likes to 'help teach the tourists Spanish' (his excuse for not being willing to speak in English with Lauren...not the only time we heard this one). Also learned that the turtles usually come in around 1/2 hour before the moon rises (around 10PM) but if they don't come in, that means that they will wait on the other side of the waves until around 1 or 2 AM (the case on our tour night). We walked up and down the beach 4 times for a total of 3 hours and about 5km in the heavy night. We saw lots of cangrejos (crabs) and had a really beautiful view of the stars.
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Heading back to our room we realized that the heat of the day did not break with the sun and we asked for air in our room. Paying an extra $10, a man plugged in the unit and we cranked it down for the night...unfortunately the rooves are just thatched palms which aren't exactly attached to the walls so most of cool air escaped before cooling the musty room (one great step toward advancing global warming, I know).
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We got up at 5A to meet for our morning tour. On the way to the office to meet, we encountered a pack of dogs blocking the road that...are just a little more intimidating in the middle of the night...so we walked around on the beach instead of the main road.

The sunrise was really colorful as it came up over the forest.

The morning tour was in a 'lancha' through a stagnant river/lagoon/swamp filled with mangrove trees and aquatic plants.

*We were a little nervous to see this man (and others) scooping water out of his boat.*

We saw a few herons and the guide (again using the excuse that he wanted to 'teach us Spanish') explained the uses for the different kinds of mangrove trees. The boat ride was incredible even though we didn't see any iguanas or tropical birds. We did however see gigantic spiders...see if you can find him...






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We tried to relax more and eat breakfast (it's hard to want to eat when you're so hot...). We were downing the licuados with fruit, juices, ginger, and mint. We were pretty excited to catch the bus back to Antigua and waited at the stop for a couple of hours hoping that the bus would come with air conditioning (it came but did not have air conditioning). The ride home was enjoyable talking to other travelers and anticipating the cool Antigua night.
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Then..we got back on Thursday night just in time to meet Rory and his friends, Jackie (left) and Sofia (right), from the city. Rory is heading home to Ireland tomorrow after a 7 month volunteering position as CasaSito's water project coordinator. We are all really sad to see him go but we had a great time last night.


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Lauren and I went this morning to plan one final travel adventure before we get back to the real volunteering business next week. We're going to Lago Atitlan for the weekend and will hopefully meet up with Cible, a friend we met in Tikal who just finished her residency and is hanging out in Guatemala taking Spanish classes, volunteering at clinics, and traveling before heading out to the real working world.